Trattoria Mario

FIRENZE | FLORENCE

Recensioni | Reviews

During a visit to Florence last summer, I was reminded of just how appealing a roast — beef, pork, veal — can be, thinly sliced and adorned only with pan drippings. My jet-lagged family and I followed my friend Emiko Davies on a hot day in late July as she ducked through a doorway beneath a green-and-white-striped awning. Davies, a longtime resident of the city and author of the cookbook “Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence,” was taking us to Trattoria Mario, one of her favorite spots for traditional Florentine food.

Although it was barely lunchtime, the place was already packed with a mix of locals and intrepid tourists sitting elbow to elbow at communal tables. The menu, handwritten (in Italian only) on butcher paper and taped to the wall, listed the day’s selections. Seeing that we weren’t quite ready to face a bloody bistecca, Davies instead ordered several platters of sliced roasts to share, plus traditional sides of roasted potatoes and stewed cannellini beans. The food, like the trattoria itself, was no-frills: no special sauces, no fancy garnishes, no clever twists on classics. But, also like Mario’s, it was genuine, and really, really good. Especially those roasts, all juicy and tender and succulent — just what you want a good roast to be.

-Domenica Marchetti
Washington Post January 17, 2017

My first meal in Florence was at Mario, giving me an unrealistically inflated view of what future meals had in store. ... I don't want to hype this place out of all proportion, but when people ask me what is my favorite restaurant in Florence, I think of Mario’s. Then I get hungry.

-Emily Wise Miller
The Food Lover’s Guide to Florence

Personaggi famosi, intellettuali e gente comune da anni sono gli abituali clienti di questa fiaschetteria: un locale semplice e pieno di vita, dove l'indiscussa qualitˆ delle materie prime dona ai piatti sapori indimenticabili. Le proposte del menu, nate dalla tradizione, sono le medesime da anni: ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, ma soprattutto zuppa di cavolo nero e fagioli. ... La cucina a vista consente di assistere in diretta all creazione di tutti i piatti elencati nel menu.

-Davide Paolini
Guida ai Ristaranti de Il Sole 24 Ore

Der immer wieder als ultimative Neuheit gefeierten offenen Küche huldigt die winzige Trattoria schon seit 1953. Genau so lange füllt sich der Saal jeden Mittag bis auf den letzten Platz. Man sitzt Schulter an Schulter mit anderen Gästen in vergnügter Runde und sieht zu, wie vom freundlichen Personal die bistecca alla fiorentina zurechtgehauen wirdes beben Teller und Gläser. Minuten später kommt das Steak auf den Tisch: rot und zart, wie es sich gehört. Danach reicht es nur noch für ein Glas Vin Santo.

-GeoSaison, 2007

 

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